I only took a few pictures
today because most of the actual sites
where the expedition stopped are not identified, or are on private land or
otherwise inaccessible. The driving guide mostly talks about things that are
near the route of the expedition, but have no real relationship to Anza or the
people who came with him. The route of my
travel can be seen on a map.
In reading the day by day description in the Brown translation
of Font’s journal it does appear that they travelled over the Cahuenga Pass as
they left the LA basin area and headed north.
The camped at the south end of Cahuenga Pass on February 21 which was
day 71 of their march. About 75 years later that would be the site of the
defeat of the Californio militia under the command of Andres Pico by Stephen
Kearney’s troops. That led to the Treaty
of Cahuenga (derisively referred to on occasion as the “Capitulation of Cahuenga”)
which was signed by John Fremont because the Californios would not rust Kearney
to live up to his word if he signed the document. The document, which
guaranteed good treatment of both sides, was written in Spanish and English by
Jose Antonio Carrillo. That tradition,
of writing formal documents on both languages, was maintained in the California
Constitution until the document was re-written in about 1878. (http://pacificvs.com/2009/08/18/a-brief-history-of-the-california-constitution
accessed 3/17/2014 - an interesting blog on the subject of California, by
the way).
But I digress. . .
My travels today took me up the coast along Highway 101 to
Gaviota, where Ca 1 splits off and more closely follows the original Anza
route. There is little information in
the driving guide I am using for specific places along Hwy 1 where the group
camped, although there is more information in the Brown volume. The road meanders
northwest through the green – this week – rolling hills and broad valleys to Vanderburgh
AFB. It is not too hard to imagine the expedition traveling over some of these hills, but in some places there are deep gorges
cut by the creeks that drain to the west.
Finding the route to avoid those roadblocks must have been quite a
challenge. Anza may have followed a
route that he had found on his previous trip in 1775, or he may have had some
help from the locals. Also, some
missionaries may have come this way to establish La Purisima or San Antonio de
Padua missions. I continued through the coastal cities of Los Osos (named by
Father Garces as I recall because he saw a skinny bear there), Oceano, Arroyo
Grande, and Pismo Beach. At Pismo Beach the route turns more northerly and
heads through Price Canyon into San Luis Obispo. This road avoids one of the most beautiful
rods in California – Highway 101 as it rolls through the pass from San Luis
Obispo to Pismo Beach. Having gone through that pass many times in the past 50
years it is always a joy when the blue – or sometimes gray – expanse of the
Pacific Ocean pops into view. A sight not to be missed.
The drive along Hwy 1 between Gaviota and Pismo Beach was
fascinating. Very large fields under cultivation much of the way – especially
north of the Air Force Base. There were
lots of activities in those fields, some being harvested, some being irrigated,
some being plant4ed, and some being prepared.
It is interesting to compare that with what I saw in the Midwest last
summer which was mostly plant and wait, then harvest, then wait until the
winter passes to start the cycle again.
Driving through the town of Guadalupe, past the cemetery where there are
familiar names, I noticed the storied Far Western Steakhouse seemed to be closed. The sign on the front was intact, but at 4:00
in the afternoon there were no cars, and the menu window by the front food –
which described how many different kinds and sizes of steaks were available –
was empty. I Googled the restaurant and saw a Yelp review that exclaimed “It’s
closed” and expressed thanks for many years of good food. I called the number and learned that the
restaurant had moved to Orcutt. A little more convenient location, I suppose,
but the consequences of the more remain to be seen - a least by me.
Anyway, I continued on to San Luis and will leave from there
for home tomorrow with stops along the way.
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